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Thursday, September 18, 2014

Snook Week #5

Line and Leader for Snook

Snook fishing demands properly matching tackle to water and air conditions, to the size of the fish, and a host of other factors. You might use the same weight line on a spinning, baitcaster or flyrod for Northern pike as you do to catch a snook under tropical conditions, but matching the tackle to the exact species is a science that can be learned. Using the wrong line and leader can be as counter-productive as using the wrong lure.
 Monofilament Line for Snook Fishing
Monofilament is inexpensive and companies have been making it a long time. A lot of record fish have been and will be caught on old-fashioned monofilament. It has a tendency to stretch. That stretch makes setting a hook on a snook a little more difficult. It floats higher in the water than other kinds of line, and it soaks water a little bit, making it weaken over time.
Some people prefer to use monofilament if they’re using topwater or high-water column lures, and they use it specifically because of the extra stretch. They tell us that they can ‘feel’ the somewhat softer line choice when snook are hitting topwater. Another advantage arises when you consider abrasion; mono abrades less then (thin) braid. For big fish in the winter near structure, this can make a difference. Again, your line choice depends on the conditions, your ability, and what you like. Always use the lightest appropriate leader.


Using Fluorocarbon for Snook Fishing

Fluorocarbon is the modern go-to-line for leader material. It’s expensive, but its ability to transfer strikes quicker then regular mono (again, the stretch factor comes into play), which causes some anglers feel it’s worth the dough. It has the highest abrasion resistance of all fly line. When you are buying fluorocarbon, look at the percentage of pure material the line was made with. Line that is made from 100% fluorocarbon is the most expensive, the stiffest, has the most “memory” (it remembers kinks), and stands up to well stress.
                                       

Braided Line

The majority of snook rods today are probably filled with 20-lb. braided line. Make sure you spend some time on our forums and get opinions from your fellow anglers. They’re on the water, and you might even know a few of them. Braid is great though, and you should move to braid if you’re serious about catching snook. Tie a 40-lb. fluorocarbon leader to 20-lb. test braid, and under most conditions – with the exception of big fish near deeper structure – it’s the perfect line and leader combination to use to catch snook.
Braided line requires the right knots because they can collect what are called “Wind Knots.” A wind knot happens when the line moves faster towards the target than the lure or bait. The (faster) line forms a loop, and the loop knots. To stop wind knots from happening, just make sure to keep a finger near the line as it comes off the spool and keep your eye on the lure. The finger slows the line’s release ever-so slightly (once you try it you will see that the skill is very natural to develop) so the lure makes it to the water before the line that is following it to the target. Braid is very strong and very thin – making it the perfect line. That said, it abrades very easily, and will get weak spots that will result in lost fish. Pay strict attention to the quality of the line and replace it if it develops any ‘hairy’ spots.

Flyline and Leader

Flyline is completely different than any of the other lines. With the other lines you are casting the weight of the lure or bait, whereas in the case of a flyrod you’re casting the weight of the line, and the lure is following the line.
There are three kinds of basic flyline. One type is called Level, the second is Double-Taper, and the third – and the one you will always be using when you’re snook fishing – is a “weight-forward” or “Torpedo Weight.” This means that the diameter of the line is thicker near the tip – where a series of reducing monofilament or fluorocarbon pieces create an 8-to-10 foot diminishing leader.
The leaders on a flyrod are just that – pieces of diminishing diameter-line stepping down to the ‘stated test.’ You can attach a heavier short piece – called a ‘tippet’ – to make it easier to land really big or really toothy fish. Flyfishing is an artform all its own.

Wire for Snook?

Yes, some people do, in fact, use wire leader to catch snook. We have seen it a few times, but strongly suggest you follow our lead and use fluorocarbon or monofilament for your snook leaders. There are people that don’t even use a leader, but instead attach their hooks or lures directly to their braided line, believing that its tiny diameter hides it enough so it works fine. We’ve seen them catch fish, too. Wire leader or a total lack of leader will both work, but they’re definitely not what we would consider to represent “Best Practices”.

Final Notes about Snook Lines and Leaders

Snook are a species you could spend your whole life learning about – and many people have. This fish is challenging and difficult to catch on a regular basis. Our primary recommendation is to use spinning tackle most of the time, with a braided 20-lb. test main line and a 30-40 lb. test fluorocarbon leader. In the wintertime, the best results will come from using a heavier line – perhaps a 30-to-40-lb. (braided) and moving up to a 40-lb. leader. Docks, seawalls, and other common winter structures -- and the big fish you’ll often find in winter holes – call for heavier tackle and heavier lines and leaders.
If you use monofilament line – which many people do if they’re using casting or conventional equipment – stay lighter at 20-lb. line and an equal fluorocarbon leader. Fluorocarbon leaders work great with monofilament, and the knots are actually easier to tie because the diameters are far closer in size than when you’re tying braid to fluorocarbon.

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